May 28, 2015

style stories #80: Sonia by Sonia Rykiel Resort 2016



The label previously known for knits ("Coco Rykiel" anyone? Yes, I remember one collection full of huge knit pom poms bursting forth from shoulders) has come of age in the world of huge fashion conglomerates. The Rykiel family still retains 20% of the company, the rest belongs to China's Fung Brands Ltd. Doesn't sound attractive (one still retains the romantic notion of a family-owned business) but to survive globally, fashion brands, it seems, need big money to survive. I know many lament the trend but if it keeps brands like Sonia Rykiel alive, I shall acquiesce for now. 

Since the redistribution, the brand has gone from Queen of Knits to a less definable look (Yves Saint Laurent, when dropping the "Yves" seems to have had an easier time cementing its au courant look for example) This is not a bad thing. Over the past few seasons, as new creative powers have stepped in (Geraldo da Conceicao, formerly at Miu Miu, YSL, Louis Vuitton, having worked with the likes of Tom Ford has definitely made his mark here), the change has been gradual and continuous; embracing something newer, fresher and probably more sellable; the feel/the look of Sonia Rykiel has an unsnobbish approach to urban cool. I like that. I prefer a brand one doesn't immediately recognize. We wear clothes, not labels, after all which makes this label inherently more attractive than its rivals. 

The gamine girl of Sonia by Sonia Rykiel resort collections is charming us. The 2016 collection bows to the Sonia heritage with relaxed cardigans belted over bare skin ('Nue sous mon pull") worn with a swinging short skirt while continuing its transition to urban cool with short leather skirts and jackets. These are paired with a classic button down shirt. The dichotomy of cool and classic. Add some sixties inspired shift dresses (the white dress is my favorite) and your resort wardrobe is complete. A lesson in not too studied indifference. Love it. 










for the entire collection, go to style.com

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